Rear brake caliper tool vw golf

Both meet all requirements for the Mk7 GTI and offer long life and consistent performance. Slotted or cross-drilled sport discs, while certainly looking the part, offer a few potential upsides aside from more aggressive looks.

First and foremost, the slots offer a stronger initial bite on brake application. This physically wears the pads more quickly but allows for more confident braking regardless of the brake temperature or pad type. It also offers a means to quickly and effectively evacuate water from the disc surface in instances of heavy rain. Lastly, slots can help to keep the pad surfaces fresh and wearing in an even fashion. The Stoptech discs are directional as well.

Drilled rotors are what many think of first when it comes to performance brakes. Drilled brake disc rotors come as standard on many performance cars, and when done properly by a manufacturer, they can offer some performance benefits. First, like a slotted disc, they offer a mild increase in bite compared to a plain disc. They also aid with water evacuation, but unlike a slotted disc, they may result in less-even wear of the pads themselves.

Additionally, in extreme use, the holes can introduce cracking of the disc surface. Some light cracking of the surface can be expected with racing brake pads with any disc type, but the chance of a crack that can cause a major failure is higher with drilled discs, generally speaking.

As a rule, if you use cross-drilled brake discs on track, be sure to inspect them regularly for signs of cracking. If you see a crack and either joins two holes or runs from a hole to the edge of the disc, it should be changed immediately. Both slotted and drilled discs can result in more mechanical noise from the brakes on application. For street performance and an occasional autocross, there are several good pads out there for the Mk7 GTI that are cost-effective and work well for casual performance use.

EBC Yellow are higher dust but offer substantially more stopping power for street and autocross use. EBC Yellow can be used as a good entry-level track-day pad but are very sensitive to being pushed beyond their maximum temperature range. There are very few pads that can be safely used on the street while also being capable of solid performance on track.

They have good stopping power when cold, they are not excessively dusty or noisy, and can hold up to repeated heavy track use when paired with a proper racing brake fluid.

We use these on our own project Mk7 GTI and have been blown away by the performance and the longevity of these pads. Dedicated racing pads from Hawk, such as the DTC series, Pagid, or boutique racing brake pad brands Race Technologies, G-Lock, or Carbotech, can offer higher overall performance but at a cost.

The pads are more expensive, fitment can be limited, they are very dusty and noisy, and they will wear brake rotors excessively when used on the street, below their operating range. More modern formulations offer a big increase in temperature capacity and performance. Castrol SRF is the best of the best, literally the same brake fluid they use in professional racing series around the world, but it is quite expensive. The final piece of the puzzle for upgrading the brakes of their Mk7 GTI is swapping the factory plain rubber brake lines for a set of braided stainless steel brake lines.

The factory brake lines are stout and do a fine job but will expand slightly under heavy use. The reality is this is pretty minimal, but it does add to the spongy feeling of factory brakes, and the reinforced braided stainless steel lines offer a stronger and more firm pedal feel. High-quality lines, such as those from Stoptech, are DOT approved and safe for both on and off-track use.

A multi-piston caliper can offer improved cooling and more even pad pressure over the factory GTI brakes, and of course, they look great behind a nice set of wheels. Some kits also offer easier brake pad changes, making the swap from street to track pads a much easier process.

Some modern BBK kits have gone to monoblock calipers in search of the stiffest design, which makes swapping a pad more or less the same process as the factory brakes. As mentioned above, better brake pads are the key to the best braking performance for your Mk7 GTI. Stoptech and Brembo make some of the best complete aftermarket BBK kits, with a huge range of brake pads and service parts available. The factory Performance Pack brakes on the Mk7 GTI are very tough to beat, so if your GTI is equipped with these, upgrading pads, discs, and fluids is more than enough for most owners.

They are quiet, service-free, and with the brake pads and fluid are more than capable of even heavy on-track use. By using aluminum for the bell and spokes, and the heavier and more durable cast iron for the friction surface, a dual-cast disc removes unsprung weight and offers the performance benefit of a floating disc without the cost.

Thanks to the modular design put into use on the Volkswagen and Audi lines in the mids, there are some higher-performance options able to be borrowed from other models for the Mk7 GTI and Golf R.

The first kit is the Brembo 4-piston mm braking system from the 8J TT RS, which although popular is harder to source these days thanks to the age and relative rarity of the TT RS model.

The current most popular option, which is a lot more economical and easier to fit behind smaller wheels, is to use the 4-piston Brembo calipers from the Porsche Macan or Audi TTS and match them to the mm R32 front brake discs. G A Removing and installing centre underbody cover — e-Golf Removing — Remove bolts Installing Install analogously in reverse order, but note the following: Specified torque Removing and installing brake pads or linings Special tools and workshop equipment required Vehicle diagnosis, testing and information system -VAS Tool set for brake bleeding -VAS Other materials: Stowage Fig.

Log in Register. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. New posts. Search forums. Log in. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Thread starter oly Start date Mar 9, Does this mean that there is a problem with the rear brake caliper? I'm using the directions that came with tool to locate the tool in the caliper. I lubricated the tool threads with WD I turned the jackscrew with my fingers until the tool was firmly in place like the picture in the instructions.

The piston is nowhere near as compressed as the instruction sheet picture shows. Also, I tried compressing by just turning the jacking screw and the piston does not compress. I turned the jack screw only until it squeezed its teflon washer out then gave up.

Has anyone had this problem before?